fixing studs on balloon-framed 1887 house

[Taidgh]

I am restoring a home built in 1887 as a farm house (now in central Los Angeles).  The job is slow-going, with each step presenting a new set of unexpected concerns.  The most recent is the termite-compromised studs where they meet the mud sill at one particular spot.  The house is balloon-framed, so I do not want to remove the wood, as they go from the ground all the way to the second-floor top plate.  I would like to selectively repair the wood with some epoxies.  I am looking for advice on what particular products to use.  My biggest concern is structural integrity.  Is the fiberglass rebar a necessity?

[Paul Marlowe]

Taidgh,
I recommend you verify the evidence of termites, the extent of damage and if termites are still active.  With this information you can best plan your repairs.  You should be able to carefully and safely excavate the damaged wood from the exterior.  Save some debris for analysis by an entomologist at your Agricultural station.  This is a way to verify termite and or other damage.  Save any live insects you find by freezing them and bring them with the debris.

Fiberglass rebar usually isn't needed for stud bottoms unless they are cut back excessively or are very large and carrying a heavy load.  My technique is normally to prepare, analyze, apply borates if needed, apply epoxy consolidant 100 to the dried damaged wood then epoxy patch 200 to fill the exact shape of the stud.  If the studs need to be cut back, you can size a replacement stud of sound dry framing wood.  This piece should be milled just short enough to easily dry fit it directly under the stud to replace the damaged section that was removed.  The connection/butt joint can then be screwed together.  Remove the screws and the piece and apply borates on all sides plus the original stud end.  When dry, apply epoxy consolidant 100 to the three end grains and any surfaces that need to be filled.  Now you can apply epoxy patch 200 to the same areas and insert the piece.  Then fasten it with rust resistant screws, recessed below the surface.  Once cured any necessary tooling/sanding can be done.

Fiberglass rebar can be used in place of screws if needed.  This can be done in the same way as the screws.  Or, once the epoxy patch cures, the joint can be bored on an angle from the original stud diagonally down into the stud extension piece you have already applied to the bottom.  The rebar is sized short of the hole depth approx. 1/2", epoxy patch or other high viscosity epoxy gets caulked in, filling the hole approx. 75% then twist the rebar into the center to just below the stud face and cap with epoxy patch.